So this is Gulu…

I arrived here in Gulu (in the northern region of Uganda) just one week ago today. My first impressions of the place were wide-eyed, if not perhaps a tad on the rose-tinted side. As the dust from the roads kicked up in my face, and the clouds drew above ever-more ominously, I began to get the overwhelming sense that I was completely out of my element. And correct that assessment was...

I had heard nothing but positive things from my other cohort members who came here, but judging from my experiences this week, it must be a different Gulu. In the week that I’ve been here, I’ve almost fallen off a dirt-bike twice; been chased by a leper whose flesh was being eaten by maggots; been looked at like a walking bank machine (by EVERY person here); and, had numerous episodes of diarrhea—which will hence forth be referred to in my posts as “slushies”. “Code browns” will denote a normal consistency of my excrement…just so you’re all in the know. Now that I have that off my chest, I’ll discuss some of the more positive experiences, few as they seem to me at this moment.

The first day I arrived in Gulu, I was brought to the gentleman's house who runs the NGO I'm working for. He lives square in the heart of the village known as "Kati Kati, Lacor, Gulu District." Upon meeting his rather large family (many of whom are just orphaned children), I was immediately welcomed...and with open African arms. It was more like a home-coming than a welcoming quite frankly.

Part of Acholi tradition (the main culture in Northern Uganda) involves welcoming their guests with what's known as a ‘fire talk’. This is basically the equivalent of sitting around the campfire telling stories, but in this case, the stories should have a moral or prevailing lesson to learn from. As I listened to the family share stories, I barely understood a word they said, but the laughter they shared was certainly contagious. Within minutes I found myself laughing along with them at god knows what...for all I know they were laughing at my frequent strolls to the latrine (outhouse). Incidentally, there were no true toilets there...it was a hole in the ground with lots and lots of creepy crawlies. Needless to say, both the fire and my hosts made me feel warm that night, and, as I later had my first "African shower" I looked up at a blanket of stars like I've never seen. The sky was boundless and immense, and I felt genuinely alive.

When I met Robert's little boy Roland, he was feeling quite under the weather with malaria. It's amazing how many people suffer from malaria here; out of the 12 people I was staying with last week (I'm now in a hotel) roughly half of them had it. Anyways, little Roland was running a severe fever, and, being that I had some extra Malarone (malaria treatment and prevention pills), I gave him 3 as per the directions on the box for toddlers. Within a single day he was back up and running...and here I was thinking that little things didn't make a difference. Not sure if it was the Malarone pills or not, but I think it had something to do with it....incidentally, little Roland says thanks to Mike and Tammy too!

Gulu is a city on the mend. Following several years of brutal conflict, it has achieved a much longed for peace. The scars of the war however, are everywhere. They're on the faces and buildings you pass by; on the bodies who hobble by you, and on the expressions you get when you say hello. War leaves such a devastating trail, long after the blood has dried up. As morbid as that may sound, it's the absolute truth. Being here and looking into such traumatized eyes is a haunting experience, it chills the soul and demands mention. Some of the stories I've heard from the people are too shocking to share; and in many ways, I've been traumatized just hearing them.

Before I close for the evening, I just want to finish off by saying that I've learned to be grateful; I've learned to never take for granted the myriad of blessings that life in Canada holds, and I don't want to give you a sermon on the mound, but please take a moment to reflect on how truly good you really have it, and how just a little effort can make a lasting change. Just ask little Roland.

Warm regards

Mike